"One Bottle of Still Water, Please"

St. Petersburg, Russia doesn't often see temperatures of 30+ degrees Centigrade (over 85 F). But on that July morning the temperatures were approaching those numbers and going higher. I was dehydrated already, having flown for 24 hours from my home in Denver, Colorado and spent my first evening in country drinking beer on the coast of the Gulf of Finland while watching the midnight sunset. Russia Day 1 was going to be a long one, and I was going to need some help to get through it.

I could really use some water, I thought.

But therein lay the problem. The desired product stood in a refrigerator behind an old woman holding down the neighborhood kiosk counter. If I wanted a cold drink, I had to ask. Which meant I had to figure our how to ask for a bottle of water, and despite my two years of language study, I could not for the life of me put together the words and grammatical constructs I needed to get it. Behind the counter the babushka stoically stared down my stammered requests.

I was lucky that day. The Russian-speaking professor traveling with my study abroad group swooped in and ordered cold beverages for all of the students, and empowered us with the phrase that we would need to get more in the future (Odny butilky vodi, pozhalusta). We went on to tour St. Petersburg, study there for a month, and spend the four months after that learning and working in Moscow. I would go back to Moscow for an additional year, during which time I became as comfortable with the language as my own.

(I also became comfortable with having a gigantic monument of a cannon right outside my door).

But I still never forgot that feeling of panicked helplessness that July, of being so desperate for something so simple, and lacking the basic language skills I needed to get it. I vowed to never let it happen again to me. And when Kate and I started Blaze Travel Guides, I decided it should never happen to any of our readers either. Therefore, when we launch our product in June, in each city chapter you will be able to flip to the phrasebook and find out how to request one bottle of water in Russian, Czech, Croatian, and even Latvian.

Still water, actually. "One bottle of still water please." Because it's annoying when all you really want is a big cold drink of water, and you accidentally buy a bottle of the carbonated kind.

A Sunday Morning Triumph

It was a sleepy Sunday at Denver’s Harvard Gulch, a May morning seemingly like any other. In the park people partook in their daily running ritual. But for one person, this morning’s run held special meaning.

Alonit Cohen was running a 5K. This 5K was a run celebrating courage, affirmation, and the triumph of an amazing woman who never knew if she’d ever be able to run again.

Six years ago Alonit was in a car crash in Israel. The accident was bad. For hours she lay on the side of the road certain she was going to die, and for days after that she lay in the hospital as her future remained uncertain. The doctors eventually told her that she’d live to make it out of the hospital, but never walk again. The months and years following the accident were plagued by crutches, frustration, and desperation from the loss of free movement.

Alonit never let her injury keep her from chasing her dreams. Following the accident she excelled in her studies at American University, and graduated with a degree in International Relations in 2005. She spent the next three years teaching in Belgrade, Serbia, and is now pursuing a dual JD and Masters degree at the University of Denver. She had only a few days before she was going to leave for Kosovo for the summer, where she was going to help set up the country’s first legal aid clinic.

She also refused to accept the fate the doctors had assigned her. It took many years of practice and training, effort and failure, but at length Al was able to walk without help. The Boulder native once again climbed a mountain.

And this Sunday, she went for a run.

Running is many things to us. But at its best, and most beautiful, it is an act of celebration of the wonder and fortitude of the human spirit. It is a dance, an expression of journey, of the magic of everything that is possible and the beauty of what, if we hope, if we believe, can be.

When we run, we are alive and free, and each step we take reaffirms the miracle that being is.

Congrats, Al, from all of us at BTG. Amazing steps from an amazing person who is going to race triumphant into the future :o).

Running Attire

As part of each city's information roundup, Blaze Travel Guides features information on what kind of clothes are advisable for runners to wear when they hit the road in a foreign country. Our reason for doing so is motivated by several factors.

The first is, of course, the physical safety of our readers. We want to ensure that our clientele lives long, healthy lives and sees many runs in many lands. We therefore attempt to advise when wearing an extra-warm layer is advisable (see "Running In Helsinki"), or when wearing bright, visible colors might be a good idea.

Our second reason is encouraging cultural respect among travelers. For example, women running in various countries in the Middle East should, despite the heat, ensure that their heads and arms are covered to avoid unwanted confrontation with locals. When running in particularly large cities, and having to travel across town to get to the runs, we sometimes advise wearing dark colors so that runners kind of fit in.

Our third reason is humor. This is the most important reason. After all, runners get a bad rap for being rather straight-edged individuals, but really, we are quite good-natured people. And when you spend as many hours on the road as we do, you garner a keen sense of irony at how the world manifests itself, and why. Laughing about it makes our lives happier, yes, but more importantly, it makes our runs better. It increases lung capacity.

So at BTG we mean no disrespect when we advise our St. Petersburg, Russia runners "Don't worry too much about the tightness of your clothes - no matter how small your Spandex, the Russian women are wearing something skimpier." We write this not only because it's funny, but because it's true. Similarly, there's a reason we advise our male London runners to sport a popped collar. It's not because all the cool kids are doing it (believe us - most of the cool kids are not), but because the London runners are. You'll squeeze right into the middle of the pack, and feel right at home.

Keep your eyes open for other such fashion tidbits when we launch our official Blaze Travel Guides website in June. At BTG we are Running The World, and we are laughing every step of the way.

Someone(s) to Run With

Over the weekend, the e-mails came pouring in. "Congrats!" they said. "Your town was featured in the New York Times as one of the top tech towns in the world." "Most e-mailed article in the business section!" another friend said. "What a cool accomplishment!"

When Blaze Travel Guides decided to make Boulder, Colorado, its home and headquarters, the resolution came about more because our executive editor is a native Coloradan who was set on her zip code and our executive officer wanted to live in a place where she could properly train for an Ironman. We both knew Boulder served our lifestyle purposes, but we had no idea that it would also be a great place to start a business.

Boulder, however, is not just among one of the most active, most educated places to live, it is one of the most entrepreneurial in the country. The article published in Friday's New York Times talks a lot about the supportive network of mentors, venture capitalists, and fellow founders who frequent the towns coffee shops and hiking trails who are willing to lend time and an ear to a start-up newbie (can you get any greener than that?). Regular meet-ups such as the Boulder-Denver New Tech and presentations such as Ignite Boulder are also great ways to stay abreast of the rapidly-changing tech scene and network with people who are driving that innovation.

This is welcome support for those who make the ultimate business decision to go their own way. Starting a company, running with an unproven idea, can feel a lot like biking alone on desert flatland into a Texas headwind, and having your speedometer break so that you have no idea how far you have come, how far you have to go, or even if you are on the right track. Pardon the cycling metaphor, my fellow runners, but most athletes know that that when you're on a bike and you've got a long dry haul ahead of you, there's nothing more awesome than finding yourself in the company of a peloton. It's faster, it's more fun, and your legs will be that much fresher when you get to the Pyrenees.

So cheers, Boulder tech scene, for driving business and innovation in our town and in our world. As our launch date gets closer and closer, Blaze is looking forward to becoming more active members of this energetic environment (and add some much-needed feminine presence to what, from the NYT photos, comes across as a mostly male-dominated).

We'd also like to give a shout-out to our buddies at Everlater who were featured in the article. Back in September we wrote a short profile piece on these guys with knowledge that they were going places even more exciting than the ones they'd already been. They've come a long way on an absolutely incredible odyssey, and you can learn more about the travel journals they've created at Everlater.com.

Terviseks Estonia!

Don't giggle. "Terviseks" (yes, pronounced "ter-vee-SEX") is Estonian for cheers, and today Blaze Travel Guides would like to congratulate this small nation on its being one step closer to adopting the Euro.

Okay, so being part of the Euro zone is not quite what all the cool kids are doing these days (see Greece, Current Economic Crisis In). But still, raising their economy to this level is quite and accomplishment for the Estonians. And it will make active travelers lives easier.

See, there's a reason we recommend a training program for those of you preparing to go to Northern, Central, Southern, or Southeastern Europe this summer. Of all the countries in this region, only Slovenia and Montenegro use the Euro (and why Montenegro? We're not sure. But it was only founded it 2007, so maybe it's too new of a country). This means that, as you travel from one capital to the next you will also be running from one currency exchange booth to another. As in, Estonian Crowns to Latvian Lats. Latvian Lats to Lithuanian Litas. Lithuanian Litas to Polish Zlotis, and Polish Zlotis back to Crowns but this time of the Czech variety. Don't mix them up. One is worth a lot more than the other (but after all our travels, we don't remember which).

So it's nice to learn that, despite the chaos being wrecked on the Euro at this moment, there is an economy somewhere that has proved its stability. And indeed, despite some uncertainty over inflation, Estonia's is cruising. This is because, even though it is a small country, it does have an industry.

Tech.

Tallinn has been called the Silicon Valley of the Baltic Sea, and among the numerous successful and influential startups that have come out of that reason, you might be most familiar with a little one called Skype. It's amazing to think that a city which was, a mere twenty years ago, locked behind an Iron Curtain, is now a major player in the communications world.

You can learn more about this and all sorts of other interesting things about Estonia, including where to run, when we launch Blaze Travel Guides this June. In the meantime, drink a toast to your Baltic brethren!

Prague on the Run

Should you find yourself in need of getting away from the Old City crowds for an afternoon, we suggest taking the following run:

1. Start your run at the Astronomical Clock on Staromĕstské Náměstí (Old Town Square). If you’re here on the hour, make sure you stick around and stretch long enough to catch the “Walk of the Apostles”. The clock is famous for this mechanical display of moving sculptures.

2. Run east down Karlova Street to the Charles Bridge and Vltava River, picking your way gingerly across the cobblestones as you go (.32 mi / .51 km).

3. Turn right onto Křižovnická Street, which soon leads to a riverside path. Continue north on it. 

4. Pass the Rudolfinum Opera House and Manesuv Most (.6 mi / .97 km). 

5. Cross the river at the next bridge, Čechův Most (.86 mi / 1.38 km). 

6. Run up the stairs on the other side of the bridge, and at the top the park begins (1.01 mi / 1.63 km).

7. Loop the park a couple of times (3.55 mi / 5.71 km). a. Use the destroyed Stalin’s Monument as your base marker. At over fifteen meters tall, it was the world’s largest monument to the little Georgian before it was destroyed in 1962. Thirty-four years later a thirty-five-foot tall statue of Michael Jackson was erected on this spot. But it went the same way as its predecessor. b. On the west side of the park there are some great views of Prague Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. c. As you come back to the south, enjoy the panoramic sweep of the Old Town and Josefov, the Jewish Quarter, on the other side of the river. d. Also take some time to explore other paths through the park.

8. Return down the stairs and across the bridge. 

9. Continue straight along Panzka Hrida to Staromĕstské Náměstí (4.09 mi / 6.58 km). 

10. End your run at Staromĕstské Náměstí and right back in the center of town.

Run of Remembrance

Runners triumphantly completing the Path Along the Wire course

Ljubljana, Slovenia

Photo courtesy of VisitLjubljana.sl

In the United States, yesterday was an important day. Sons and daughters all over the country bought flowers, indulged in chocolates, and took their moms out to brunch, lunch, or dinner. But on the other side of the Atlantic, May 9 is significant for a very different reason.

The day is internationally known as Victory in Europe Day. Sixty-five years ago, Germany officially put down its arms and surrendered what was one of the most brutal wars the continent had ever seen. Millions of people had been killed. Millions more were sick, homeless, and without family, friends, or nation. The entire continent was in a shambles, and would stay that way for many years to come.

Out of this war grew many institutions that now have incredible sway over our international politics - the United Nations and the European Union are only the most notable of these. More importantly, from this tragedy grew a mindset that the citizens, individuals, had to take it upon themselves to make the decision to live conscious, aware lives, that would relegate this kind of horror to the past.

Part of overcoming war is remembering it, taking a solid moment to recall what took place in order to ensure it never happens again. Therefore, on May 9, from London to Lvov, parades, ceremonies, and speeches take over the cities and streets.

As do runs.

On your mark, get set . . .

Active travelers have a chance to take part in these events. One of the most remarkable is the March on the Path Along the Wire in Ljubljana, Slovenia. This 33 km path marks the points where Italy erected a barbed wire fence around the city during its several-year occupation. Today the route is dotted with monuments, landmarks, and a well-maintained path.While the route is certainly open to be walked, or even better, run, every day, May 9 is a day when you can do it in fellowship of Lubby Locals who come together to enjoy the spring, the sun, and the peace that marks their beautiful city. It's a day when we can all be grateful for what we all have.

Running is a great way to mark days like these. It's the perfect way to exercise the spirit of who we are, and exorcise memories of who we never want to be.

Keep your eyes open for the coming launch of Blaze Travel Guides. In the Ljubljana chapter you will be able to learn about this, and other great runs, that are annually held in this awesome city.

And remember - remembering is something you should do every day.

Les rêves, los sueños, our dreams

We've all got them, but not everyone's in the position to make them true. For that reason, we at Blaze Travel Guides ask you to support Steve Young as he runs the Leadville 100 for the Colorado I Have a Dream Foundation this summer. CIHAD is an endeavor to work with inner-city youth to help them catch up in school and live up to their dreams. Leadville is a town in the mountains of central Colorado about 8,000 feet above sea level. The 100 is miles.

Steve is a Colorado ultra-runner who worked for this organization in 2007-2008, and continues to fund raise for them in his events. You can visit his blog, A Run-in With The Law, to download the donation form, or contact him via me at taylor@blazetravelguides.org.

Merci, gracias, and thanks to all who help support this effort. Steve, we're sending all our positive energy your way, and the dollars will soon follow.

The Routes, The Maps, The Stats . . .

For those of you who were wondering what we meant when we said we were putting together a running guide to the world, well, it goes a little something like this. Check out the excerpt from the Moscow chapter below:

Moscow Run #1 – The Moscow River
Russia’s running community loves its legends about the inspiration that strikes runners on
the path between Park Kulturi (Парк Културы – formerly Gorky Park) and the Sparrow Hills
(Воробьевы Горы – Vorobyovi Gori). Some runners have had visions, others have had revelations,
and the author of Бег Спаси (Byeg Spasi – Running Saves) claims to have had his entire
narrative come into his head while on this route. Believe what you will, but even Boris Prokopiev,
the editor-in-chief of Бег и Мы (Byeg i Mui), Russia’s main running magazine, calls this
his favorite Moscow run. The route features a great river path lined with a serene forest on one
side of it, with views towards great city vistas on the other. So you’ll probably enjoy it too.
 
All route possibilities for this run start from Vorobyovi Gori metro station, three stops south of
the circle line on the red line. The station is actually in the middle of the Moscow River; you’ll
want to head for the exit on the south side.

1. Start your run at the base of the stairs at the metro exit.

2. Head northeast on the riverfront path (when you are facing the river, this will be to
the right). Continue for as long as you like, passing such sites as:
  ➢ Andreyevsky Monastery (.75 mi / 1.2 km): It may be tough to pick out this
enclave between the trees, but this institution, founded in 1648, was one of
Moscow’s first teaching seminaries.
  ➢ Russian Academy of Sciences (above Andreyevsky): If you think this building
is funny-looking from afar, just wait till you get close to it! It’s almost worth
detouring from the run to do so. Try to satisfy yourself with staying the course
and simply contemplating the great minds that have worked behind those
strange windows.
  ➢ Third-Ring Bridge (.81 mi / 1.3 km): Moscow is a city built on rings. The Third
Ring is known for being rather large, particularly busy, and unusually ugly.
  ➢ Not-Boring Gardens (1.1 mi / 1.75 km): We don’t make up names at BTG. Not-
Boring, or “Neskychni”, is the oldest park in Moscow. This former tsar’s estate is
home to the Green Theater, one of the largest amphitheaters in Europe (seats
15,000).
  ➢ Park Kulturi (1.83 mi / 2.94 km): This park, formerly known as Gorky, is still
home to one of the most popular amusement parks in Moscow. If you’re lucky,
you may be able to continue running through the park all the way to the
Krimsky Bridge (4 km / 2.5 mi). Usually, though, the path is usually closed off
where the park begins.

3. Turn around and return to Vorobyovi Gori metro station, taking in the view of Moscow
State University as you cruise along (3.64 mi / 5.86 km).

4. Got more energy? Go the other way! There’s more path all the way up to the Setun’
River (add 3.45 mi / 5.55 km). On the opposite bank you’ll see:
  ➢ Lyzhniki Stadium: Home of the 1980 Summer Olympic Games, in which the
US captured medals in . . . oh, right.
  ➢ Novodevichy Monastery: You’ll glimpse its glittering gold domes at the
turnaround point of your run. Novodeivichy is home to the second-most
important burial grounds in Russia (the first being the Kremlin walls). Among
those laid to rest here are the writers Nikolai Gogol, Mikhail Bulgakov, and
Vladimir Mayakovsky, as well as politicians Nikita Khrushchev and, more recently, Boris Yeltsin.

5. Return to Vorobyovi Gori metro station (7.09 mi / 11.41 km with first portion).



Distance:    3.64 mi / 5.86 km (out-and-back to Titovsky Proyezd, at beginning of Park Kulturi)                     5 mi / 8 km (out-and-back to Krimsky Bridge, at end of Park Kulturi, if open)
        3.45 mi / 5.55 km (out-and-back to Setun’ River, in opposite direction) 
        1.5 mi / 2.25 km (add on up to MGU lookout)

Expect:        Flat asphalt terrain until hill climb to Moscow State University – then dirt and steep.

Best Time to Run:  Any time

Navigation:    Easy – stick to the river

Checkpoints:       
    ➢    Vorobyovi Gori Metro Station (Воробьевы Горы)
    ➢    Andreevsky Monastery / Third-Ring Bridge
    ➢    Not-Boring Gardens (Нескучный Сад – Neskychni Sad)
    ➢    Russian Academy of Sciences (Академия Наук – Akademiya Nayk)
    ➢    Park Kylturi (Парк Културы)
    ➢    Moscow State University (МГУ – MGU)
    ➢    Lyzhniki Stadium (Лужники)
    ➢    Novodevichy Monastery (Новодевичий Монастырь)
    ➢    Setun’ (Ceтунь) River